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DIY furniture,reclaimed bathroom vanity by Mike Donovan 2
2011-11-25 20:51:58
www.fyf-art.com here to continue the topic of DIY reclaimed bathroom vanity.

1While we weren’t ready to cut the top to size just yet, it was impor­tant to make this decision up front, as it affected the placement of the sink. Once we knew the size of the top, we could use the paper template that came with the sink to determine its position. With the template taped in place, we used a drill equipped with a spade bit to bore holes at opposite corners of the template. These holes provide a place to insert a jigsaw blade. After that, it was just a matter of cutting along the lines of the template (Fig. 1). This cut doesn’t have to be perfect, as the edge of the sink will hide small imperfections
With the back legs off, our vanity needed a sturdy mounting point. This came in the form of a ¾"-thick cleat, which we sandwiched between the side aprons and mounted with pocket screws. In Fig. 2, you’ll notice a few additional pocket holes along the edge of this cleat. These will be used to reattach the tabletop later on.
To further stabilize the structure, we added crossmembers on either side of the sink (Illustration, page 73). Like the mounting cleat, these are held in place with pocket screws. They also have pocket holes for securing the top

2With the sink opening cut, we moved on to the other modifica­tions planned for this table: removing the back legs in order to mount the vanity directly to the wall, adding a back apron to serve as a wall cleat, and cutting down the top to create the backsplash. To make things easier to work with, we began by unscrewing the top from the apron and leg assembly. After that, we unbolted the back legs. Then we measured the side aprons and cut them to match the desired depth of our vanity

 


3At this point, we turned our attention back to the tabletop and backsplash. A table saw with outfeed support was really the best tool for cutting the top to create the backsplash (Fig. 3), but a circular saw and straightedge would work in a pinch.


4After making the cut, we attached the backsplash to the tabletop by clamping it in place, counter­sinking pilot holes in the underside of the top, and driving in screws (Fig. 4).With the construction complete on the top and leg assemblies, it was a good time to finish them. We liked the aged patina of the top, so we opted to simply preserve it with a few coats of exterior polyurethane for moisture protection.

We wanted to give the legs and apron a weathered look to match the top. To accomplish that, we painted them a light blue and then sanded back the paint after it dried, so some of the original color would peek through.

Once the finishing was done, we reattached the top to the apron. Then wedisassembled the drawer box and reinstalled the drawer front by driving in screws from inside the front apron.

5At this point, we were ready to remove our old vanity and install the new one. To do this, there are just a few important steps. First, shut off the water supply to the faucet. This is as simple as turning a couple of knobs on the supply lines that lead up to each knob on the faucet.Next, disconnect the sink and faucet from the existing plumbing fittings. This includes the faucet supply lines and the trap beneath the drain in the sink. Now remove any caulk between the vanity sink or counter and the wall with a utility knife. Finally, remove the screws holding the vanity to the wall, and it should come right out.

Installing the new vanity is as simple as locating the wall studs, and driving long screws through the mounting cleat and into these studs. Set a level on the countertop to help you position it before driving in the screws (Fig. 5).

Now it’s just a matter of mounting the sink and faucet, and connecting them to their respective plumbing fittings. You’ll start by mounting the sink, which is accomplished by running a bead of plumber’s putty, caulk, or silicone sealant around the opening (your sink installation manual will tell you which product to use). Then set the sink in place. Usually a bead of caulk around the rim of the sink is also desired after installation.

As long as you didn’t move the vanity too far from the location of the old one, you should be able to use the existing plumbing fittings. If you’re installing the vanity in a new location, you’ll want to consult with a plumber before trying to move any pipes yourself.

One issue that often comes up when replacing a vanity is a height difference between the old sink and the new one. For the faucet, most supply lines are flexible and long enough to accommo­date different heights. To connect the drain trap and the sink, however, you may need to purchase additional fittings.

Since the plumbing is exposed beneath our vanity, we used chrome fittings instead of PVC. These cost more, but don’t present any unique plumbing challenges. If your existing vanity was plumbed with PVC, it’s a good idea to take the fittings to the hardware store and get chrome ones to match.

That done, we accessorized with towels, hooks, and other items to create a bathroom that’s truly one of a kind! —Written by Wyatt Myers, illustrated by Matt Scott, project design by Mike Donovan